Skip to content
General Wood Finishing Tips

General Wood Finishing Tips

Make sure not to sleep on this crucial step as choosing the right finishing can be what takes your project from a 6 to a 9 out of 10. Here’s some tips on how to treat different types of hardwood to bring out their unique textures and tones.

The stain cabinet in our shop is loaded with everything from oil-based stains, water based stains, sanding sealer, several types of polyurethane products, lacquer, waxes and more.  We've used almost everything on the market to achieve desirable results.

We can't emphasize enough that you use a scrap or practice piece of wood to test your stains and finishes ahead of time!  Here are the steps that we follow for the best results:

  • Preparation: Sand the wood thoroughly with progressively finer grits (ending at 180–220 grit) to create a smooth surface. Always sand in the direction of the wood grain. Run your hand over the wood to feel for uneven spots or areas you may have missed.  Remove all dust with a tack cloth or vacuum. A microfiber towel can work exceptionally well as a last step to "dust off" any remaining debris. Removing ALL of the dust is a crucial step to ensure a consistent finish.  The fine powdered sanding residue will absorb more stain than the hardwood itself.  Any remaining sawdust in the pores of the wood can cause an uneven or color-augmented finish.
    For Very Fine pieces (select hardwoods) we use a process called "water popping" to raise the wood grain of softer fibers and tiny ridges before a final sanding.  Emphasis here is to "lightly dampen" the surface of the wood with a fine mist or a damp cloth. Don't soak or flood the wood.  Allow the piece to dry. You may or may not be able to feel some of the raised grain.  Once fully dry we'll sand with a 300 or 400-grit sandpaper and remove all dust. 

  • Conditioning (optional): Apply a wood conditioner, especially for soft or blotchy woods, to ensure even stain absorption.  We only occasionally use a sanding sealer or wood conditioner.  This is not a process we use every day.  You'll need this step more often if you're staining soft woods or pine.  Fresh cut lumber recently harvested and dried will sometimes also require this step to prevent blotches and overlaps in your stain.  This step can also be used if you're after a Really even color without as much emphasis on the show quality of the wood grain, for example in whitewashing or color staining.  Follow the instructions on the container.  If you have some wood that still feels softly "velvety" even after sanding (we had this recently with some recently milled cherry) it is best to test your stain and determine if the wood will accept stain evenly without conditioning.

  • Staining: Apply the stain evenly with a brush, cloth, or sponge, following the grain. Let it sit for a few minutes, then wipe off the excess. Allow it to dry completely.  The depth of color will vary based on how much stain you apply and for how long you leave the stain before wiping off your excess. Rub the stain over all overlapping areas with additional attention to clear overlaps and blotches.
    We have used nearly all brands of stain.  The available colors and outcomes (finishes) can direct you in which type and brand you might like to use.  For our high-end pieces we love Rubio Monocoat products.  Rubio Oil Plus 2C is the most even-finishing product we've used, and it is nearly impossible to leave overlaps from passes with your applicator.  This is a plant-based product and qualifies as food-grade but is of high enough quality to be used for flooring. A little goes a long way with Rubio so don't be concerned about the smaller containers.  Follow their guidance and instructions.

  • Finishing: Apply a clear finish (e.g., polyurethane, lacquer, or oil) with a brush or spray. Let it dry, sand lightly with fine-grit sandpaper, and apply additional coats as needed for durability and sheen.

  • Note: For most pieces we'll apply the first, heavier coat of clear finish and allow to dry before lightly sanding off (or de-gloss) the surface with a 400-grit sand paper.  Clean your surface thoroughly in between coats! We'll follow with another lighter coat that we'll sand again with 1,000-grit or higher sand paper.  Our final coat is a thin, skimming coat that covers the entire surface.  The final coat should be dragged completely from one end to the other in a smooth and even stroke. The surface should appear completely wet, and without any bubbles or bare areas.  Use just enough clear finish in this step to cover and show minimal lines or brush strokes. A quality polyurethane will self-level and your brush strokes should virtually disappear.  This last step should require no polishing to display a desirable sheen on the finished work.  This is the general process with a polyurethane and will vary when using shellac or lacquer.  Follow your label directions with each product.  We also use the Rubio Monocoat product Sheen Plus as a final finish with some of our projects.

  • Curing: Let the finish cure fully (as per product instructions) before use.

Best Commercial Finishes for Each Hardwood Type:

  • Oak: Matte stains or satin varnish for a natural rustic touch

  • Cherry: Clear shellac or wax to preserve the deepening red hues

  • Walnut: Dark oil finishes for a luxurious high-end effect

  • Alder: Light stains to enhance its warm, casual aesthetic

  • Mahogany: High-gloss lacquers for a refined, polished look

Application Tips for a Perfect Finish:

  • Sand the surface before applying any stain

  • Use thin, even coats to maintain depth

  • Let layers dry completely before sealing

  • Always protect wood with a final topcoat

Always use the appropriate finish for the type of application you're working on.  Pay attention to your product specifications in terms of whether your piece will need an interior grade finish or an exterior grade product.  Most products will hold up for a long time, but harder finishes like lacquer and shellac will be more durable for tabletops.

Prepare ahead of time for cleanup based on the product you're using. Also be sure to work in areas of ample ventilation when using products that contain warnings about fumes and air quality. 

Next article Choosing the Type of Hardwood for Your Project